Read another article by The Tillsonburg News, 2008

Read another article by Jeff Tribe of The Tillsonburg News

By Jeff Tribe Staff Writer – The Tillsonburg News

For the month of September, Brian Rocco, executive chef at Niko’s Eatery and Bar, is highlighting an additional ‘local’ component to his menu and mantra in reflection of participation in a month-long Oxfordlicious celebration.

“For this dish here, that is actually perfect for it,” said Rocco Friday morning, indicating a rainbow trout with traditional Creole sauce and wild rice pilaf entree, from his Oxfordlicious menu.

Niko’s is one of seven county establishments onboard for an exercise promoting adventures in fine dining through local establishments working hand-in-hand with local producers, using the tenants of the 100-mile diet as a rough outline. Dining participants have the option of acquiring a passport (for more information, contact Tourism Oxford - 519-539-9800 extension #3355 or email This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ), which ultimately may be entered into a draw for Via Rail passes, one entry per passport stamp.

And chefs have been able to enjoy the intellectual and physical exercise of developing specialized Oxfordlicious components to their broader menus.

The 28-year-old Rocco’s roots as a chef go back to Italian cuisine courtesy of his grandmother and mother: “basic things, tomato sauce, meatballs, lasagnas.”.

He built on this base through the Chef Apprenticeship Program at Fanshawe College in London, apprenticing with two London Certified Chef de Cuisines. Rocco developed his technique at the Lamplighter, and then Michael’s On The Thames, before accepting the position of executive chef at Niko’s.

Simplistic’ would sum up his philosophy on food, succinctly.

“I don’t like complicating pallets,” Rocco explained. “You start throwing in 15 different flavour combinations in one dish, you lose the original focus of the dish.”.

Rocco’s interpretation of Oxfordlicious is a three-course prix fixe offering ($39.95) featuring a trio of appetizers, a pair of dessert options and a trio of entrees, including the trout.

The filleted and cleaned eight-ounce basis for the dish comes from Goossens trout farm, located just south of Otterville. The sauce features, says Rocco, the Creole ‘trinity’ of green peppers, celery and onion, along with whole canned tomatoes, fresh thyme and garlic, brought to life with Rocco’s “own blend of Creole seasonings.

The fillet is plated on top of a bed of wild rice pilaf (with peppers and garlic pan-fried in oil) and garnished with lemon and herbs.

“It’s simple enough, when it comes to the cooking,” he smiled.

Other entrée options on Niko’s Oxfordlicious menu include charbroiled Berkshire pork chops (from Black Bow Farms near Foldens) glazed with cider reduction and topped with apple chutney and with sides of roasted mini red potatoes and chef’s vegetables; and an AAA ribeye steak (sourced from Norwich Packers) rubbed with house spices and served beside loaded baked potato and chef’s vegetables.

The appetizer list features smoked sausage Carpaccio style, with roasted red pepper goat cheese, rosemary Foccacia Crostini and Parmiagiano Reggiano; Tandori chicken satays (with chicken tenderloin from Poultry Specialties) with lime and chipotole peanut sauce; and hydroponic arugula lettuce, a spicy form of lettuce, says Rocco, custom-grown for Niko’s by Lettuce Alive, outside of Norwich. The aruugla is topped with a home-made raspberry balsamic vinaigrette and garnished with red onions, feta cheese and maple-toasted pecans.

Dessert options includes either ‘Niko’s famous cheesecake’ (“probably the best cheesecake you’ll ever have,” Rocco interjected) or a chocolate trio: chocolate hazelnut truffle and peanut butter fudge from Chocolate Tree, located just two doors down from Niko’s, along with a ‘chocolate mint smoothy’, a form of ‘shooter’.

Although the life of an executive chef – early to late, six or seven days per week – does not lend itself to additional responsibilities, Rocco has enjoyed, and supports a concept which is both positive and productive for producer and chef, on through to the dining public.

“It is interesting,” concluded Rocco. “It’s nice to know what there is to use locally – gives you a maybe a different way of looking at a couple of things.

“Good exposure for them, good exposure for us – everyone happy.”

Newspaper: The Tillsonburg News